On the 4th Amy and I tried to be as stereotypically American as we could possibly be and wanted to see how many European countries we could cram into a 24 hour period of time. We had started with Italy the night before and Tuesday morning we took the train from French speaking southwestern Switzerland to German speaking eastern Switzerland where we then took a bus across a river into tiny little Liechtenstein. This micro-country is the home of approximately 30,000 people and takes up no more space than my big toe. (Actually 11 miles from north to south and 7 miles from east to west.) Liechtenstein is what I consider to be the picturesque "real" Europe - the one that existed before vandals overran the entire continent with graffiti. (Or perhaps this is just an image I have that never really existed universally?) In any case, Liechtenstein is a clean, safe little country with immaculately well-swept and maintained streets with gorgeous views of snow capped mountains in all directions! What's not to like?

Amy and I scaled one of these little mountains (hills?) climbing a bazillion steps (maybe a couple hundred) and tromped across steep, snow covered grassy inclines (alright, half an inch of snow on a bump on the side of the road) to get a gorgeous view of the Prince of Liechtenstein's family castle as well as an amazing view of nearly ALL of Liechtenstein as well as the beautiful mountains butted up against Liechtenstein in Switzerland to the west. As they say in Germany, "Traumhaft!" (dreamy!).

After our walk, Amy and I treated ourselves to a well deserved lunch in some random little joint "downtown" and continued our game of people watching. Sitting behind us was this multi-generational gathering of men, about eight of them, who all looked like Lichtensteinian Mafioso. I was trying to eavesdrop on their conversation, which was all in Lichtenstein-dialect German, and all I could make out was that they were talking about buying some random something for 50,000 German Marks ($30,000) and charging it to the government roster. Most likely they were the Prince's goons - instructed to enhance the material quality of his life while charging it all, secretly, to the tax payers of his tiny little principality. And like corruption everywhere around the world, the goons were probably rewarded with drug-trafficking rights across huge swaths of Liechtenstein.

Or maybe they were just talking about the cost of building a playground in the local children's park?

Crack and kiddies aside, around sundown Amy and I hopped on a public bus and rode our way across the entire country (in 20 minutes!) to Austria where we caught a train across the panhandle of western Austria (only 10 minutes!) into southern Germany where we met up with my friend Gesine Wernecke who lives in Munich. Unfortunately for Gesine she had gotten ill right before New Year's Eve and had to spend the millennium sick in bed! She wasn't feeling very well when we showed up four days later, but she was happy to see us nevertheless and we were happy to see her too! That night we just stayed in her apartment, relaxed and spend the rest of the night having a couple drinks and being paid a visit by her neighbor Wolfgang (Wolfi) - a * real * native of Bavaria! :-)

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