25 April 2002

Well, here I am in flat, barren and desolate northern Saudi Arabia, a.k.a. Mars. I arrived on the compound around 1pm on Monday after a harrowing drive up from Riyadh and have managed to get unpacked and settled into my new digs already. I'm starting to get a feel for the place here and before too long I should be completely into the swing of things. . .

. . .not that there's much of a swing to get into here mind you. . .

Let me begin this email with an audio notation I made to my sound-enabled digital camera yesterday while sitting in the passenger seat of a squatty white Nissan pickup truck next to a mosque as my driver was inside praying.

***

22 April 2002

It's currently 12:10 and I'm in a small town near the King Khalid Military City area and the driver has decided to pull over and pray. It's now prayer time. When we pulled into town I thought that this would be my town, and it's kind of small. I see a gas station here and it's all Arabic. . . and it's kind of TRASHED AND SCARY here. And I thought, "Ah. . . this is where I'm gonna be living for the next two years!" Fortunately the driver is just praying here and we won't be staying. I'm hoping that my compound is coming up soon. We're about 60 or 70km from Hafer al-Batin and my compound should be about 20 or 30km from here. Or from there. I don't know. All I know is that I'm in the middle of the desert and it's sunny outside and it's getting kind of warm and I bet all my stuff is melted in my suitcases under the sun in the back of the truck. I've got my ritzy new laptop computer and my upgraded digital camera in the front with me so at least those aren't gonna melt.

As for the scenery in the area, the desert itself on the way through here was pretty much flat but we had some areas of orangey, reddish sand dunes with sporadic populations of scrub bush here and there, and a couple of grubbyish towns here and there. There's really nothing between Riyadh and this place. Actually, there is a small town, though I can't remember the name. It was a pretty decent size, maybe a thousand people or so, although there are fewer people out here than I expected I would see. Other than that it's all desert and Bedouin nomads with their camels. I saw some camels and goats along the way, but fewer than I thought I'd see so maybe they're farther out in the desert away from the road. And there are quite a few south Asians driving the big diesel trucks and doing most of the labor out here in the few stores that I can see from time to time, but that's normal in Saudi Arabia. My driver is Saudi, but I don't know what his name is. My first driver's name was Nasser and he was in his late 20s or early 30s, but he was switched out about 150km back and I've got a different one now. This driver is an older guy probably in his mid or late 50s, beard, headdress and the rest of that. I'm sitting in the air-conditioned truck now just waiting for the noon-time prayer to end so I'm gonna go and you'll hear more from me later!

***

As mentioned in the above little voice blurb, I left the hotel in Riyadh where I had stayed for two weeks and headed up to King Khalid Military City par Al-Salam Aircraft Co. "currier service". What is meant by "currier service" here is that apparently Al-Salam has hired some sort of goods-delivery group to transport whatever the company needs to have transported between the compound up here in Hafar al-Batin and Riyadh some 450km (280mi) to the south. Although I was told by the company representatives that I'd be driving up to KKMC (King Khalid Military City) in a car, and not a truck, I found myself greeted Monday morning by a smiley faced youngish Saudi man in a small Nissan pickup truck. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm not opposed to small Nissan pickup trucks, it's just that I had been warned by my new school supervisor over email that I shouldn't put anything in my suitcases that might be subject to heat damage since he had his digital camera damaged last summer when the thing virtually melted in the 4+ hour trip to the jobsite and then I was told by the company headquarters that I'd be in a car so I was under the impression that my items would be stored neatly in the safety of a trunk. As such, I had packed one of my boxes willy-nilly with things wrapped in plastic bags hanging out here and there and didn't take any special precautions to protect my stereo (by adding extra Styrofoam peanuts perhaps?), not to mention that I hadn't done anything special to insulate my CDs. So when the guy showed up in a *truck* I was like, "So much for reliability of the information given to me by the office guy at Al-Salam in charge of in-country transportation issues."

Once out at the front of the hotel, the bellhop rolled my three suitcases, stereo, and willy-nilly packed box out to the road side and the three of us heaved the items up over the side of the truck and wedged them into the bed between the sides of the truck and a large black drum (containing some sort of toxic sludge I assume?) which was already in back. There were a couple other boxes in the back in addition to my items so we really had to push and force everything in.

Once secure, I hopped into the passenger side of the cab of the truck with my laptop computer in my backpack, placed it between my legs, and then we were on our way out of the city and up to the desert oasis I'd call home for the next two years.

Sidenote: people drive on the right side of the road here in Saudi Arabia, just like North America and continental Europe.

After swinging down the Mecca Highway then hooking a right northward onto King Fahad Highway and speeding past the newly built high-rises of downtown, we quickly sped past the Riyadh city limits and were suddenly out in the middle of nowhere as vast stretches of nothingness rolled by on all sides.

Highway 65 heading north is a 3-lane roadway in each direction with a large dirt median bordered by long stretches of seemingly new 4-foot high wire fencing which I imagine serves to keep flocks of goats, sheep and camels off the highway. As a matter of fact, at multiple points along Highway 65 were concrete overpasses with no on or off ramps leading to the highways itself, but rather simply bridged both sides of the desert and were labeled in Arabic and English "Camel Crossing"!!! I thought the entire concept was totally cool and I tried snapping a picture of the camel crossing sign but each time I tried, it turned out I was too slow in pressing the shutter button on my camera so all I got was blurred desert landscape. :(

I did manage to take quite a few pictures out of the truck window though and I'm surprised that so many of them turned out despite the faster-than-light rate of speed my youngish Saudi driver was traveling.

Since Saudis can be so camera shy sometimes (read, camera-phobic) I made sure to ask Nasser if it would be OK for me to snap a couple shots to which he quickly replied, "Maafee Mooshkeela!" (No problem!) So down went the window and out went my camera and wind-buffeted face.

Outside the window all I could see was endless miles and miles of dry, barren desert in all directions. Occasionally I would see a ridge or hill off in the distance, or a couple sun baked and parched hills rising slightly around the landscape, but not a whole lot other than that. There were infrequent rows of shiny new metal power towers draped in innumerable wires running parallel to the highway for long stretches, then they'd disappear into some unseen direction. After a while of driving I would suddenly notice tiny green scrub bushes covering the dusty landscape like an exploding population of rabbits. My thoughts would then turn to the subterranean water ways which must have been under these bushes somewhere and I'd think about how much it rained out here and how long the roots of these bushes must be to access what little moisture existed out here, and I wondered if there was some weird rain pattern out here that would allow certain areas of the desert to be covered in scrub bush and forbid other areas from any growth whatsoever. Was it the earth and dirt itself? Maybe it's softer in some areas and harder in others?

Whatever the case, the thought kept me occupied for quite some time. After about two hours of driving with Nasser and listening to several of his old, worn Arabic music cassette tapes at high volume as to mask the bing-bong alarm that sounds in all cars in Saudi Arabia that exceed 120km/h (75mph) we exited the main highway and headed out in a new direction on a new roadway. I was somewhat happier to be on this smaller road that I could see leading into a small town since it meant that Nasser would have to remove his foot just slightly from the gas pedal and bring our speed down from 105mph (170km/h) to something much more reasonable like 80mph through town.

You know, I'm starting to get the feeling that Saudis don't think they're driving safely until they actually hear that bing-bong from the car which is supposed to inform them to slow down a bit. Maybe they think that if you hit something at 110mph that you're more likely to destroy it instead of it being able to destroy you?

I never know what these Saudis are thinking when they're driving to tell you the truth, or even if they are thinking!

The transition from camel transport to wheeled vehicles here has been rather sketchy to say the least...

So anyways, we rolled into town when suddenly Nasser veered off the main road downtown and headed out behind a dusty old concrete gas station and parked the car next to a mosque out behind. At this point, as I always tend to think these days when I perceive something to be not totally predictable, I thought, "Is this where I become the next Daniel Pearl?"

It's sad, but true. I feel bad for having suspicions like this in the back of my mind, as I find the Saudis to be a very nice group of people, but I guess one has to be a bit realistic when traveling the world these days and keep his eyes open. I mean, hell, I have to keep my eyes open all the time in the United States be it in some scary logging or welfare area in the mountains of California or Washington (do Inskip or the Olympia peninsula ring any bells?) or when I'm passing through ghetto, as you are bound to find in virtually any American city. So I suppose that being alert here in Saudi Arabia isn't different than being alert anywhere else on Earth.

It's just that Americans abducted and killed abroad is so much more sensational than Americans abducted and killed domestically I suppose. And with George Bush pissing off the entire planet these days (except Israel), as an American I just need to be a bit more precautious, especially in this region.

Anyways. . . I wasn't abducted at the mosque, and instead all that happened there was that Nasser switched out of the truck and a new driver switched in. I never did get the new driver's name, but he was most likely in his mid-50s, had a dark black beard, a wide smile, and was dressed in the standard white Saudi robe and red-and-white checkerboard headdress. The new driver was quite friendly and we managed to communicate back and forth with my very broken Arabic once he hit the road.

I asked the new driver, whom I shall call Omar for lack of a better name, if it would be OK for me to snap some pictures out the window as we drove down the highway. He didn't mind at all, and he was quite excited to see my camera as I whipped it out and pointed it toward the glass of my passenger side window. "It's a digital camera with audio," I said.

"Does it have TV video as well?" asked Omar.

"No, well, not really. It can take videos for the Internet, but not really for TV. There is a difference. Mainly I take pictures so my friends and family can see Saudi Arabia. They are very interested!"

"That's great!" he said, and was obviously very happy.

One of these days I'm gonna have to take a picture of these bearded, rural Saudi guys. It's just that I know how freaky they get anytime a camera gets pointed in their direction. Sigh. . .

So Omar and I drove down the road as I snapped several pictures of an area of orange sand dunes that we had passed through as well as a group of camels that we zipped by. Unlike the nice, though still dangerous highway between Riyadh and the little town with the mosque in it, the highway between Mosque Ville and King Khalid Military City was bad no matter how you looked at it. Apparently it will one day be a three-lane highway in each direction separated by a wide dirt median as you can see long stretches of constructing taking place along side the section of highway which is currently in use, but for in the mean time you've got two directions of traffic using a single 3-land stretch of roadway which technically only travels in one direction. Of course, having two directions of traffic on one slap of pavement while the neighboring length of highway is under construction is not necessarily a bad thing, as this happens virtually anywhere that parallel runs of highway are being built, it's just that in Saudi Arabia, there are NO cones to separate traffic flow and there are virtually NO speed laws, NO driving laws, NO law enforcement, and NO signs informing drivers of any potential dangers, especially as these two directions of traffic approach the occasional hilltop and you never know if you're going to be crashed into by a semi-truck or sports car traveling in your direction at well over 100mph. And of course everyone is driving like a flipping maniac (like they always do in Saudi Arabia) so people are passing each other left and right and cars are all over all three lanes and I constantly found Omar and every other driver coming at us in a perpetual Game of Chicken while passing in the middle bi-directional lane.

I swear, I just sat there in my seat and was like, "God, I know I'm not exactly the most sinless human you've ever created, and I know that I've probably given you a million good reasons to strike me down right here and now on this highway, but, could you maybe do me a favor and just make sure I get to my compound in one piece, PLEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAASE!!!! I just really don't want my obituary to read, 'American killed in totally preventable highway collision between squatty white Nissan pickup truck driven by old Saudi man and giant 1950s Mercedes water-tank delivery truck piloted by Bangladeshi national without driver's license in pathetic game of chicken.' Thank you God."

Apparently He/She/It was listening as I made it to my destination safe and sound. I'm still thinking though that next time I have to make the trek that I should just fly! I'll gladly take the cancer risk of repetitive exposure to upper atmospheric radiation in an airplane to the years melted off my life by experiencing the fear of travel on a Saudi highway!

Highway horrors aside. . . we eventually reached King Khalid Military City by around 1pm and after getting through the four security checkpoints along the way to my compound I was dropped off at the "200 Villas" (as my "compound" is called) out in front of the main administrative office.

At the office I was promptly greeted by a friendly African-American man from New York who had apparently converted to Islam, grew out a long beard, changed his name to Dawuud (David, in Arabic) and moved out to Saudi Arabia to live in the Islamic holy lands as many black Americans I've come across here have. Dawuud assigned me to my villa, got my keys for me, and gave me a quick tour around the compound showing me where everything is located. Once he made sure everything was taken care of for me, I was dropped off at my apartment, lugged my things into my new home, took a quick load off my feet, sat down on my new couch and pondered the obligatory first-day-of-traveling-somewhere-new thought, "Daniel, what the hell have you gotten yourself into this time?!?"

:)

And I shall tell you what that is in my next email!

Daniel

Megalinks Homesite / Saudi Arabia

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